Tapih Rancung: Preserving Brunei’s Sinjang Tradition Through Innovation

For generations, the sinjang, a traditional Bruneian men’s garment, has been a symbol of pride and cultural identity. Yet, for many, its intricate folding and tying process remains a challenge. 

Hj Ahmad Najib Hj Ali Hassan, a teacher-turned-entrepreneur, saw this not as a barrier, but an opportunity. His brand, Tapih Rancung, has redefined tradition with its innovative instant sinjang, earning acclaim from everyday wearers to royalty itself.

A Modern Twist on a Timeless Tradition

The sinjang, a woven fabric worn around the waist, is a staple at formal Bruneian events. Yet, its traditional tying method can be time-consuming, requiring precision and practice. 

Image: Iqbal Selamat

“During my wedding, I had to change outfits multiple times in a day. Tying the sinjang properly took so long and I knew there had to be a better way,” he recalled.

In 2018, while studying traditional arts at university, Hj Ahmad conceptualised an instant sinjang; pre-folded and secured with hidden fastenings, allowing wearers to simply wrap and go. 

His design preserves the garment’s elegant drape and cultural authenticity while eliminating the hassle. “It’s not just about convenience. It’s about ensuring the sinjang remains relevant for today’s fast-paced world,” said Hj Ahmad.

Image: Iqbal Selamat
Image: Iqbal Selamat

The Birth of Tapih Rancung

Named after the Malay words “tapih” (to fold) and “rancung” (woven fabric), Tapih Rancung was born at a startup competition during International Youth Day. Hj Ahmad’s prototype, a sleek, ready-to-wear sinjang, won over judges and audiences alike. “People were surprised and no one had thought to modernise the sinjang before,” he continued.

Today, the brand offers three main collections:

Tapih Timun – A classic, versatile design for everyday wear.

Tapih Potong Pancung – Inspired by His Majesty the Sultan and Yang Di-Pertuan of Brunei Darussalam’s regal style, featuring bolder folds.

Tapih Kemudi – A more structured, contemporary take for formal occasions.

Each piece is crafted from high-quality tenunan (traditional woven fabric), with patterns like Bunga Putar—a design pioneered by the late Sultan Haji Omar ‘Ali Saifuddien Sa’adul Khairi Waddien, adding historical significance.

Overcoming Challenges: From COVID to Royal Recognition

The pandemic nearly derailed Hj Ahmad’s dream where he had to vacate his shared retail space and shifted operations to his home. “Customers sent their measurements and we shipped the finished pieces,” he shared. Surprisingly, demand grew, particularly for weddings where quick outfit changes were essential.

Then, in 2023, a life-changing call arrived, a request to design an instant sinjang for His Majesty the Sultan. “I thought it was a prank,” Hj Ahmad said.

But after multiple fittings and meticulous adjustments, working with fabrics worth thousands, the royal endorsement became reality. “Seeing His Majesty wear our design was surreal. It wasn’t just an approval but a reminder that tradition and innovation can coexist,” said the founder.

Image: Iqbal Selamat
Image: Iqbal Selamat

Beyond Fashion: Cultural Preservation & Inclusivity

Hj Ahmad’s mission extends beyond commerce. He collaborates with elders and weavers to document fading customs, like how sinjang length and fold placement signify marital status or social rank. “Elders wear it to the side to show they’re married,” he explained. “These details are disappearing, and we must preserve them.”

The instant sinjang has also empowered wearers with disabilities. One customer, missing a hand, no longer relies on family to dress for events. Another, a plus-sized gentleman, teared up when he could finally wear one comfortably. “Those moments are why we do this,” Hj Ahmad shared.

Image: Iqbal Selamat

Balancing Teaching & Entrepreneurship

By day, Hj Ahmad teaches and by night, he designs. “My mother reminded me not to neglect my day job,” he smiled. But with Tapih Rancung now housed at Airport Mall and royal commissions under his belt, even skeptics have become supporters.

The business owner plans to introduce new lines, including modern interpretations of other traditional garments. His advice to aspiring entrepreneurs? “Respect your roots. Innovate, but never lose sight of why your culture matters.” 

In a world rushing toward the future, Tapih Rancung bridges the past and present—one instant sinjang at a time.

Image: Iqbal Selamat

THE BRUNEIAN | BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN

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