Local creative FARED recently showcased their wardrobe collection at the Indonesia Fashion Week (IFW) 2024 in Jakarta, highlighting intricate designs and motifs of the Bruneian tenunan (woven fabric).
Bearing the theme “The Beauty of Art, Customs and Culture Transcends Time”, the brand featured nine looks namely – Hijau Gadong Beripul, Baju Kot Tangan Sukmaindera, Baju Kot Papal Taruk Ubi Batingkat, Si Pugut Bunga Bemanik, Si Raja Muda, Baju Basar Batutup Dua, Baju Becampur Laki, Baju Becampur Bini and Baju Jinga Angin Betabur.
FARED was inspired based on the three elements of the line’s theme – ‘The Beauty of Art’, ‘Customs and Culture’, and ‘Transcends Time’.
The ‘Beauty of Art’ exhibits the beautiful patterns of Bruneian tenunan in digital print, the main design focus of the collection for 2023 – 2025.
The selection of motifs and colours is vital as it elevates the stunning decorative patterns of the woven fabric which inspirations seen in the traditional Brunei Malay malam berbedak (night powdering ceremony) wedding dress.
The patterns in the collection include Silubangsi Bangsi, Bunga Putar, Bunga Tabur and Sukma Indra, among others.
For the ‘Customs and Culture’ element, FARED paid homage to the ‘malam berbedak mandi’ ceremony whereby the bride and groom wear different types of accessories to complement their dresses.
The bride wears a headdress heavy copper which is sometimes gold-plated that has either a chicken sculpture called ‘Ayam-Ayam’ or dragon, surrounded by fragrant flowers.
Meanwhile, the groom wears a songkok (hat) or dastar (a crown made of woven cloth). The wedded pair is adorned with copper or gold-plated bracelets, bangles, ankle bracelets and necklaces.
The bride is also wrapped with jongsarat (woven cloth) around her waist which was given by the bride as part of her dowry.
Moreover, in the ‘Transcends Time’ aspect, the label defines that regardless of modernity, the history of art, customs and culture must be maintained.
“In this modern age, the practice of mixing and matching art with culture and tradition is increasing which can be confusing to the younger generation. They may not be able to differentiate the authenticity or origins,” said the designer and creative director of FARED.
Pg Abd Farid Pg Idrus further said that woven fabric is one of Brunei Malay treasures that has been in the sultanate for centuries.
“Learning and understanding our own culture should start from a young age and with modern methods and technology, it can help increase our awareness of these things,” he said.
FARED’s debut at IFW 2024 was realised by a team of seven local creatives – Pg Abd Farid Pg Idrus, Haziqah Zakirah Hj Muhammad Shamiruddin, Nur Hamizah Hj Mohd Efenddy, Amiruddin Rashid, Abdul Muiz Ganai, Ak Md Nazrul Helmi Pg Ladema and Husney Zakaria.
The brand which is under the helm of the creative label FOFARED started in 2014 and rebranded in 2021.
“We actively support local artists sponsorship, serving as ‘Youth helping Youth’ initiative. As local creatives, our brand utilises products and materials found in Brunei which at the same time helps improve the country’s economy,” said Pg Abd Farid.
Touching on their participation, the designer said it was nerve-wracking for the team as IFW is a big annual event.
“We anticipated this show… with the support of the FOFARED team, we were able to present our collection with ease as most of the styling and talent management is handled by our team members while I get to do the final check,” he added.
For Pg Farid and his team, being able to be on a huge stage and audience was eye-opening as it helped them to better comprehend the culture, crafts, patterns as well as the tenunan.
Thanks to their presence this year, FARED has been offered a slot to participate in the next fashion week in the ‘International Designer’ category.
“Alhamdulillah, our participation in IFW 2024 garnered many compliments from other designers who shared the same stage with us,” said the creative director.
THE BRUNEIAN | BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN
